Ltstdl com part4 rar

It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter shotokan Start date Dec 12, Tags floorstanding loudspeaker tdl.

I've emailed Wilmslow Audio to see if they can suggest a tweeter upgrade that's easy to fit. Active Member. Click to expand Jim, if tweeter is working, then you do not need to change it. First what you can do is check crossover components, if capacitors for tweeters are died short , that could be the reason for too bright sound. Another option - modify crossover. Replace capacitors to some good ones but not too expensive , important one is serial capacitor to tweeter, capacitor in bass section - if it is alive, you can leave it as it is.

And you can do some attenuation for tweeter like here: TDL RTL Rebuild - Crossover and Measurements or instead of l-pad you can add capacitor in parallel to tweeter - some 0. Very good if you can do some measurements with microphone before and after. Last edited: Dec 12, Thanks for that D. Hi mate! I remember when I had my RTL 3 in rosewood I think it was around about and these was one of my first speakers I upgraded the hell out of it as I loved there bass they gave, if memory serves I think I went OTT with these and sadly blowed the tweeters with a clipping amp, how you learn, compare me to now I am a old fart lol!

Best upgrade what changed the sound for the better was the internal wiring as the stuff in side gives a nasty harsh sound, I hard wired the crossover and remember putting some massive caps as replacements just about fitted into the cab. Made the speaker more warmer fuller with a smooth treble. As for your questions that never got answered, the measurements with a microphone would be REW software and a compatible mic which would be a UMIK-1 from minidsp, but you could use a SPL meter, but not so good for mid to treble frequencies.

The two resistors RP1 and RP2 are 1 ohm and 10 ohm respectively. Keep the thread updated as you will have to let me know how they sound with the mod! Happy modding! Last edited: Dec 23, No problems mate, happy to help! To me with the cost involved you could buy a new pair of speakers and if the tweeters are working fine now as I remember them being very powerful so very easy to know if they not you could just do the crossover upgrade and should not cost that much. When I get some time I will add up the cost of the upgrade and see how much it comes up to.

If the guy said that then it should be OK, its just that the tweeter is very different with a rear chamber and what seems to be a very slight horn loading to the front dome.

Thanks for the additional info - I'll have a look over on HiFi Collective or Wilmslow for some replacement Caps and resistors and take it from there - if I decide to replace the internal wiring is there any particular wire the you would recommend? Not a problem! Thanks for that - pretty cheap too - also considering changing out the current speaker cable and biwiring them as well bug bites deep eh?

From your experience what order would you recommend staging the mods in? Also regarding the crossover mods - the pull down mod and swapping out capacitors etc. Well, I would start with the cable upgrade first as the cable inside is way to thin for the bass drivers what I can remember, plus the tweeter cap being run of the mill 10p can caps and they start to drift when they get old and they be coming to 20 years old now, so it may be what you hearing, problem I remember was that they need a 6uf cap and no one does that still today, so means adding up on the caps yourself in parallel.

The icw caps are large so will take some solder and DIY skills I did remove the board as it was easier to mount the parts to the plastic cover and hard wire the components together.

What I remember there is a 10 watt resister in there that burned out easy, but only if it was played at high levels for a long time. Big it may be, but this speaker is attractively shaped, looking slim from the front with plenty of depth for a firm mechanical footprint. There are two identical main drivers, each with mm plastic cones, pressed steel baskets and fair size magnets, placed above and below a little 19mm soft fabric dome tweeter.

Reasonably tight woodscrews hold these into the 16mm chipboard cabinetwork. The lightly damped interior is closer to a reflex than transmission line, but the complex internal bracing does have certain labyrinthine characteristics, while the very generous port is foam-damped.

The rather rich and heavy balance on offer here somewhat polarised the panel. Some loved the extra weight and scale, along with the expressive vocals generated by the well maintained treble, while others complained that the bass was both thick and rather overblown, without genuine extension and fine detail discrimination.

Am I asking to much of these speakers, they are so much fun I would not want to completely change their sonic character. Come on Dave R, I know you have some experience of these, get that grey matter working. I had a pair of RTL-1s which I upgraded. The mods made a ton of difference and improved speed, clarity and definition. They did well for a couple of years and were then sold for a good price to fund some JBLs.

I can't argue with the above, but the fundamental issues in the crossover don't appear to have been addressed with the wholesale wiring and tweeter replacements above. The comments below apply to the original bubble-veneer RTL3 mk1's, not the nicer looking mk2's, which had dire things done to them to make them sound more like the popular Acoustic Energy competition If you look at the crossover network, there's a resistor across the bass coil IIRC and I think from memory that it's 15 Ohms.

The electrolytic caps MUST be replaced with polyprop ones, but I wouldn't go too exotic here in all honesty, as the rest of the speaker isn't really worth it. Hope this helps a bit. The late John Wright did the "voicing" of these speakers, together with all the TDL and previous IMF models and I also understand from memory that John also designed the Goldring G cartridge and its derivatives way back in the late 60's..

I have finally got round to sorting these speakers out. I had a chat to Wilmslow audio who supplied all the components needed apart from the 27ohm resistor. I replaced the 15ohm resistor with a 27 ohm one as reccomended by Dave R. I lined the cabinets behind each driver with bitumen deadsheets to reduce any vibrations and changed the internal wiring of the woofers with black rhodium disco cable again from Wilmslow audio.

I have currently left the original wiring to the tweeters as some recommend that silver plated copper wiring can make these sound too bright. I placed the original stuffing in the first chamber rolled up loosely as recommended by Mike Snowdon in a popular tdl rtl 2 forum.

I also put extra wadding folded over in the entire rear chamber. I just sat there all day listening to my music collection, hearing more clarity And detail in each track.

I finally fell asleep in the chair after some whisky and that is where I stayed all night this upgrade is well worth the effort and even an amateur like me had great success with it. Is this correct and what would happen if I replaced this for say a 1. If you add a resistor in series with the tweeter, it will reduce the tweeter level perhaps a tad too much, especially as you've increased the mid now and made the RTL3 easier to drive in the process :.

Why not just enjoy them as they are now, as doing what you've done may have really improved them. John Wright, who was very talented at designing and "voicing" his speakers I understand he developed the Goldring G series of cartridges too; , tended to reduce the midrange to emphasise bass extension, especially in his bigger models.